I’ve recently been lucky enough to spend some time travelling around South Africa’s Cape winelands – mostly visiting the Francshoek and Stellenbosch areas to do a spot of wine tasting. To my delight, not only were the wines exceptional (somewhat as expected) but the culinary experiences were almost their equal. Because of its use in showcasing & enriching the drinks accompanying it, the food has now become as much of a focus as the wine.
Haute Cabrière
It’s just one of the many reasons I enjoyed my time at the Haute Cabrière wine estate in Franschoek. Haute Cabrière is a veteran of the local wine scene, given over to French Huguenot farmer Pierre Jourdan in 1694 and developing & evolving ever since, making it part of South Africa’s wine history for over 300 years.
Aside from producing my all-time favourite white wine – the Haute Cabriere Chardonnay Pinot Noir (60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir) – the estate offers a remarkable array of local foods. Try spending an afternoon there, enjoying the fusion of colours, flavours of best-in-class food and wine, accompanied by mesmerising views of the Fanschoek valley – or if you turn your gaze inside the restaurant, you can admire the unique underground cellar, surrounded by colourful artworks, many of them by Haute Cabrière founder Achim von Arnim…
Need further enticement? As well as a traditional single, large course, the restaurant also offers guests hal portions, encouraging a sampling approach to find the right combinations of tastes and textures for the palate. Accompanying each dish, the chef’s recommended varieties of wine, meaning each guest can expect to sample a wide selection of everything on offer. Haute Cabrière are certainly working hard for the title of “the perfect marriage of food and wine”.
Delaire
Another exceptional food experience can be found at Delaire Graff, Stellenbosch. Delaire is a contemporary-designed wine estate, bringing together landscape, food, art and interior decor. Local South African artists are represented on-site, along with the world-famous Chinese Girl, by Vladimir Tretchikoff – yes, the original, recently purchased by Delaire’s owner, Laurence Graff, and to be displayed there with the rest of his art collection.
Sitting outside under the trees, I found the food no less of a design highlight. Executive Chef Christiaan Campbell is in charge of offering up a signature style ‘bistro-chic’ cuisine at the Delaire Graff Restaurant. The waiters there will recommend the right wine for your meal, and entice you with combinations like…Blesbok loin, courgette flower, ricotta, num num compote and cauliflower, vanilla; Lots of chocolate flavoured desserts and “pistachio kisses” etc.
Babylonstoren
A very different (but comparably superb) undertaking is the Bablylonstoren restaurant and farm shop. The work of one of South Africa’s foremost Design icons, Karen Roos, Babylonstoren aims to be the ultimate South African farmyard wine & food experience, offering a warm, hearty feel with a five-star finish. The menu is inspired by the garden the farm was built around, and the homemade breads and jams are to die for – or, if you want to avoid that kind of drama in your life, to take home or stuff yourself with. The farm shop itself is particularly impressive – a striking display and range of products under rustic lighting, staying true to a farmyard ethos…
There’s more than one restaurant, and the other restaurant (primarily designed for staying guests) is a cosy, log-fire affair located in the old black smith’s room – again, a deliciously authentic feel to your mealtimes.
After a long day of wine tasting on the Stellenbosch wine route it is worth stopping off at the town itself. Stellenbosch is stuffed with art, architecture and – befitting its nickname “The City Of Oaks” – acorns! You can spend hours walking the green lanes and admiring Cape Dutch buildings. It’s also the focal point of the Western Cape’s street cafe culture, and you can’t stroll very far without having your eye caught by an enticing-looking example…
Life and Leisure
It has also become a great place for visitors to stay whilst exploring the Cape Winelands. I wanted to try an unusual, boutique experience, so I picked the Life & Leisure (http://www.lifeandleisure.co.za) guest house to spend the night, located smack in the heart of town, within walking distances of wine bars, coffee shops and restaurants.
I loved the feel of this place – guest-house cosy, but with the professional service of a boutique hotel come breakfast-time. It strives to stay true to the decor of the town – vibrant colours lending the place a warm, lively feel, reflected in the hearty food they bring out to you. I found it a delightful way to start a day of exploring the winelands of the Cape – and if you’re not driving yourself about, they offer bespoke tours. Brilliant.
Exploring the South Africa wine route? Expect much more than just wine.
